Winterizing
a boat reminds me of the old commercial that
says "pay me now or pay me later."
The time and effort you spend now will have
a definite effect on your boat's
performance, or lack of it, and certainly
save you time, effort and money come spring.
You should remember that your insurance
policy may not cover damage done by lack of
maintenance or neglect.
The
best place for your boat to be during the
winter is out of the water, under cover, in
a climate-controlled boat storage area.
This, however, can be expensive. If don't
have this option perhaps you should consider
shrink-wrapping
your boat. This, too, is a little expensive
but provides a very protective cover. Short
of these two items, make sure that your boat
is well covered with a tarp or some other
sturdy cover.
Your
first step in winterizing should be to make
a checklist of all items that need to be
accomplished. Check the owner's manual of
your boat and motor (s) for manufacturer's
recommendations on winterization. If you are
a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ
the assistance of a friend with experience
in winterizing or contact us at
New
Hampshire Mobile Marine Services to do
the job.
PRICE
LIST:
WINTERIZING PACKAGE
(including oil change)
$125.00 per engine
WINTERIZE
ENGINE ONLY
$75.00
GEAR LUBE
CHANGE (Merc HP Gear Lube)
$30.00
OIL FILTER
CHANGE PER ENGINE
$75.00
WINTERIZE
GENERATOR
$45.00
GENERATOR OIL
CHANGE
$60.00
WATER SYSTEM
W/HOT WATER
$75.00
WATER SYSTEM
W/COLD WATER ONLY
$50.00
ICE MAKER
$30.00
AIR
CONDITIONER
$50.00
PERSONAL
WATERCRAFT
$50.00
OUTBOARD WINTERIZATION
2 - 8 HP
$30.00
10 - 30 HP
$40.00
40 - 60 HP
$50.00
70 HP & UP
$75.00
OUTBOARD GEAR LUBE
2 - 8 HP
$10.00
SMALL GEAR
CASE
$15.00
LARGE GEAR
CASE
$25.00
BOTTOM WASH
$6.00 PER
FOOT
OUTSIDE STORAGE
CALL FOR
AVAILABILITY
The
following is a generic outline of areas
which should be of concern to you.
Inboard
Engine (s)
-
You should run the engine(s) to warm it up
and change the oil while it is warm. This
tends to allow impurities to be drained away
with the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush
all water from the engine(s) with fresh
water. Drain all water from systems and then circulate antifreeze
through the manifold by using a pickup hose
from the water pump to a bucket of
antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the
antifreeze to circulate until water starts
to exit the exhaust. This process will vary
slightly depending on whether you have a
"Raw Water" cooling system or an
"Enclosed Fresh Water" cooling
system. While you're in the engine room you
should also change the fluid in your
transmission. Remove spark plugs and use
"fogging oil" to spray into each
cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop
towel sprayed with a little fogging oil or
WD-40.
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Stern
Drive (s) -
You should thoroughly inspect the stern
drive and remove any plant life or barnacles
from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and
check for excessive moisture in the oil.
This could indicate leaking seals and should
be repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap
and water. If your stern drive has a rubber
boot, check it for cracks or pinholes.
Grease all fittings and check fluid levels
in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check
with your owner's manual for additional
recommendations by the manufacturer.
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Outboard
Engine (s) - Flush
engine with fresh water using flush muffs or
similar device attached to the raw water
pickup. Let all water drain from the engine.
Wash engine down with soap and water and
rinse thoroughly. Disconnect fuel hose and
run engine until it stops. It is important
to make sure that all fuel is drained from
the carburetor to prevent build-up of
deposits from evaporated fuel. Use fogging
oil in the cylinders to lubricate the
cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water
resistant grease to propeller shaft and
threads. Change the gear oil in the lower
unit. Lightly lubricate the exterior of the
engine or polish with a good wax.
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Fuel
-
Fill your fuel tank (s) to avoid a build up
of condensation over the winter months. Add
a fuel stabilizer by following the
instructions on the product. Change the fuel
filter (s) and water separator (s).
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Bilges
-
Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use
soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean
up any oil spills. Once the bilges are
clean, spray with a moisture displacing
lubricant and add a little antifreeze to
prevent any water from freezing.
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Fresh
Water System -
Completely drain the fresh water tank and
hot water heater. Isolate the hot water
heater by disconnecting the in and out lines
and connect them together. Pump a non-toxic
antifreeze into the system and turn on all
the facets including the shower and any
wash-down areas until you see the antifreeze
coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in
the water heater.
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Head
-
Pump out the holding tank at an approved
facility. While pumping, add fresh water to
the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish
crystals or whatever your owner's manual
recommends that will not harm your system
and let sit for a few minutes. Again add
fresh water and pump out again. Add
antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding
tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose.
Again,
check your owners manual to make sure that
an alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage
your system.
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Interior
- Once
you have taken care of the system you should
remove any valuables, electronics, lines,
PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders,
etc. Over the winter these items can be
cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary.
Open all drawers and lockers and clean
thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so that
air is able to circulate around them or,
better yet, bring them home to a climate
controlled area. Open and clean the
refrigerator and freezer. To keep your boat
dry and mildew-free you might want to
install a dehumidifier or use some of the
commercially available odor and moisture
absorber products such as "No
Damp," "Damp Away" or
"Sportsman's Mate."
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Out
of Water Storage -
pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off
props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim
tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers.
Open sea cocks to allow any water to drain.
Check the hull for blisters and if you find
any that should be attended to you might
want to open them to drain over the winter.
While you're at it, why not give the hull a
good wax job? It is probably best to take
the batteries out of the boat and take them
home and either put them on a trickle
charger or charge them every 30-60 days.
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In
Water Storage -
Close
all sea cocks and check rudder shafts and
stuffing boxes for leaks, tighten or repack
as necessary. Check your battery to make
sure it is fully charged, clean terminals,
add water if necessary and make sure your
charging system is working. Check bilge
pumps to ensure they are working and that
float switches properly activate the pumps
and that they are not hindered by debris.
Make sure either to check your boat
periodically or have the marina check it and
report to you. If in an area where the water
you are docked or moored in actually
freezes, you should have a de-icing device
or bubbling system around your boat.
By
following some of the above suggestions you
should be in good shape for the winter. Do
not, however, neglect to consult your
owner's manuals for manufacture's
recommendations on winterizing your boat and
other systems. If you have not done a
winterization job before or don't have an
experienced friend to rely on we at
New
Hampshire Mobile Marine Services can do
the job for you.
The above is a suggested method. New
Hampshire Mobile Marine Services is not
responsible or liable for the actions or
results of persons who have not contracted
with our services.
Service
that comes to you!
